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      CommentAuthorNick
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2009 edited
     
    Cool finishing trick I tried for the first time last week: I try to be careful about letting the iron pipes of my pipe clamps come in contact with the wood I'm clamping, but when it happens, the pipe leaves an ugly black-blue stain where the glue, the wood, and the pipe all come together. This will happen with any iron clamp, water-based glue, and wood that has some tannic acid extractives imbedded in the fibers (oak, cherry, ash, walnut, etc.). These stains typically go so deep that you cannot sand them away without leaving a divot. But if you take some oxalic acid (available at paint and hardware stores), mix up a mild solution (5% to 10%), and wet the area of the stain with the acid, the acid will convert the ferric tannate (the black stuff) to ferric oxalate (clear stuff). This usually takes 12 to 24 hours and works best with oak and ash in the experiments I have done. When I applied it to cherry and walnut, the oxalic acid slighty bleached the area where it was applied, destroying some of the woods' color. I'm guessing that to use this method with richly-colored wood, you'd need to (1) mask off the stained area, (2) remove the stain in several steps applying only a little oxalic acid with each step, and (3) monitor the progress of the reaction to make sure you don't remove too much color.

    Anyone have any experience with this finishing technique? Anyone have a different technique for preventing or removing "clamp stains?'

    With all good wishes,
    Nick
    • CommentAuthorBeeg
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2009
     
    Nick to prevent it. Couldn't ya just slip a piece of wax paper between the pipe and the wood?
    •  
      CommentAuthorNick
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2009 edited
     
    Sure you could. And it's my guess that when it comes to glue-ups, an ounce of wax paper is worth a pound of oxalic acid. But just in case the wax paper tears or slips or you just like living dangerously, I thought it might be good to know about the oxalic acid option.

    Another preventitive technique, and the one I use in my shop, is to cut 2" lengths of garden hose; and then cut these lengthwise, parallel to the axis. This makes them easy to slip over the pipes on pipe clamps. They serve as spacers, keeping the wood about 1/16" away from the iron so the two materials never touch. Additonally, I suspect that waxing the pipes would reduce the reaction between the water in the glue, the tannic acid in the wood, and the iron in the pipe. Even if it doesn't, it certainly helps with glue clean-up.

    With all good wishes
    Nick
    • CommentAuthorBeeg
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2009
     
    I LIKE that idea of using garden hose. I think I'll go and cut some hose now, since I have a glue job coming up soon.
    •  
      CommentAuthorNick
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2009
     
    Water the garden first.

    With all good wishes,
    Nick
    • CommentAuthorlv2wdwrk
    • CommentTimeMay 23rd 2009
     
    Foam pipe insulation (used like the garden hose) will work also.
  1.  
    That is great advice - thanks guys. Alec
    •  
      CommentAuthorNick
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2009
     
    Found this about that: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/willi02c.pdf

    With all good wishes.
    Nick
    • CommentAuthorrld
    • CommentTimeMay 26th 2009
     
    Something a lot cheaper to use is those foam water noodlea that kids use in the swimming pool. They are 60'" long and 3 1/2" wide and cost about $3.
    RLD
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