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    • CommentAuthorBeeg
    • CommentTimeJul 11th 2009
    Right now I'm using TiteBond III. So I should have more time before it sets up. Recently I glued up rockers and a stretcher, for a child's teddy bear chair. The first part that glue was applied to, was starting to set up. Anybody know how to delay the dry time, before I go back to liquid hide glue?
    • CommentTimeJul 11th 2009
    I've been using TiteBond Original Professional or its equivalent for years. I'm not sure what advantage you find in
    Titebond III. Original Titebond is has a water cleanup, the set time is rather slow, allowing for those corrections that seem to pop-up along the way. Once set, in a tight joint, it is inseparably, at least has been for me. Obviously my experience is multiple products is limited. Either White/yellow glue, or 2 part epoxy, but they work for me.
    • CommentTimeJul 12th 2009 edited
    According to Franklin's literature on Titebond III, you have 10 minutes of open time and a total of 25 minutes of working time. In other words, you must have the parts together in 10 minutes and the clamps on 15 minutes after that. Furthermore, open times and working times are sensitive to temperature and relative humidity. You live by the mighty Mississippi, Bob, and it hasn't exactly been cool. 10 and 25 are for 70-degree days and 50% RH. If your shop is warm and humid, you might be down to 7 and 18. How long was it before the glue skinned over?

    I've always liked hide glue, and as long as your parts are clean and the fit it tight, the bond is perfectly strong enough for all but the most strenuous use. Since you obviously have had success with hide glue, it might be your best option. If you feel you need the extra strength, consider epoxies. I work with an aircraft-grade epoxy similar to the West system that gives me well over an hour working time on warm days. See .

    With all good wishes,
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