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    • CommentTimeSep 3rd 2009 edited
    The fixture shown is an adjustable miter gauge extension with a stop to position the wood before each cut. One face is fixed; the other slides left and right so you can adjust the position of the stop relative to the cutter. When mounted on a miter gauge, it will work with either a table saw and a dado cutter or a table-mounter router and a straight bit.

    Make the stop the same size as the fingers you want to cut. If you want to cut different sizes of fingers, make several sliding faces, each with a stop of the appropriate size.

    When setting up the fixture, use the adjustment screw to fine tune the position of the stop. One turn of the stop will move the sliding face and its stop 1/32". See the attached PDF for complete instructions on how to make finger joints.

    With all good wishes,
    • CommentAuthor8iowa
    • CommentTimeDec 19th 2009
    Last year I went thru "finger joint hell" while making a curved top treasure chest for my grandsonm. I made the finger joint jig from plans shown in one of Nick's books, but It did not have the adjustment block.

    Folks, let me tell you that an error in spacing of just a few thousands multiplies itself in an 8 inch run to the point that a fit is impossible. First I discovered that the spacer stud needs to be exactly the same width as the dado blade, and I mean precise. Next, without the adjustment block, micro-incremental changes in the spacing are almost impossible. Frustratingly, I had to give up on 1/4" fingers and went to 3?8".

    Nick, how about showing greater detail of the adjustment block.
    • CommentAuthordusty
    • CommentTimeDec 20th 2009
    There has been a lot of discussion about needing to make measurements to within .001" when doing wood working tasks. This is one where such measurements are almost a necessity. All measurements associated with the pin and pin location must be as accurate as you can possible make them. The level to which you comply will determine the degree of usefulness that you build into this jig.

    Having said all of that, I should probably go back and rebuild this jig. Maybe I can make one that works well this time.
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    • CommentAuthorBrucewave
    • CommentTimeJan 17th 2013
    OK, you could that again.